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How outer shells are your first line of defence

Thu, 19 Dec 2019 10:40:01 GMT

How outer shell fabrics are your first line of defense Discomfort used to be a price you paid for protection, but here’s how that changed Jun 28, 2019

Which Base Layer

Fri, 06 Dec 2019 17:15:05 GMT

WHICH BASE LAYER - A BUYERS GUIDE

Base Layers, sometimes referred to as Foundation or Primary Layers, form the basis of any clothing layering system. Designed to sit next to the skin and "Wick" sweat away to provide a dry "Thermally Regulated" result. They are NOT just for the cold weather as many people think.

By wicking moisture from the skin, a Base Layer will help keep you warm or cool depending on the fabrication but ultimately "thermally regulated" to achieve that Goldilocks result regardless of the conditions.

There are "very" significant differences between fabrics on the market but it is essential that you get a fabric that works with your body. Slapping on a thin 100% Lycra "skin" that has no technical properties, will ultimately be counter-productive.

Baselayer.co.uk holds a wide selection of top brand name base layers made from a variety of fabrics for every condition and requirement you may have.

This guide is designed to provide you with every conceivable option you might experience to ensure you get the item you need.

GARMENT CHOICE:

Choose the one that works for you. All the technical fabrics we have within our range have various features and benefits and each has its own merits but critically, you should look for four primary fabric Considerations:

Wicking: Does the fabric wick effectively?

Fit: Does the garment fit you and is comfortable next to your skin

Seams: Does it have a seamless structure or flat locked seams that won't rub

Odour Control: Being next to the skin, does the fabric have natural or man-made anti bacterial properties that will absorb or eliminate fabric odours occurring

Durable: Is the fabric durable enough for the function you are looking for.

Avoid Cotton: Cotton retans moisture for a long time and doesn't seek to move it away from the body. Cotton is a killer when it comes to base layers.

FABRICS

Merino Wool

Merino wool is the result of millions of years of R&D by Mother Nature herself. Rich in natural properties that inspire some of the worlds' leading brands, its unique properties enable it to be manufactured into a wide range of luxuriously soft and stylish clothing with some key benefits.

Merino is ethical, soft and has natural odour prevention properties as well as very effective thermal properties that can also be combined with synthetics for additional durability and performance. Basically, the heavier the weight per Square Metre (GSM) the warmer the garment but equally the more expensive. For a real in depth analysis of Merino Wool, click here and read at your leisure.

Polyester

Polyester is a very clever technical fibre. Strong, highly efficient at managing moisture, resistant to stretching and very durable making it an ideal fabric for use in base layers as they ensure garments remain close fitting as intended.

Moisture Wicking: Polyester has exceptional wicking capabilities and is very fast drying. Many brand names are affiliated to Polyester including CoolMax™, ThermoCool™, DriFit™, HeatGear® and ColdGear®.

Odour Resistant: Whilst not possessing any "natural" fabric odour defence like Merino and Silk, a decent Polyester base layer is usually combined with some technical wizardry that prevents bacteria infesting the fabric that can cause fabric odours occurring. In-built chemical treatments at production and the use of Silver Ions both resist the bacteria that can cause fabric odours.

Silk

Another natural fibre of course and one that many use in warmer conditions but equally effective in cold conditions. Silk has many of the properties of Merino Wool but the fibres are even finer that wool so can be woven into incredibly fine garments and is therefore often preferred next to skin ahead of wool. But as a general rule, Silk is not as effectively thermally efficient as wool but does have many positive attributes. Moisture wicking, natural anti bacterial resistant, super soft, easy wash and no ironing are all positives to considering Silk for your base layer.

Polypropylene

Another synthetic fabric that has evolved brilliantly as fabric technologies have advanced. Polypro is the thermal king of synthetics constructed using long strings of lightweight hollow fibre and is exceptionally thin so can be woven into almost any shape and finish desired.

Polypropylene is Hydro-Phobic....it hates water. As a result it acts continuously as a conduit for moisture rather like an ultra-fine straw so it moves sweat and moisture very fast indeed. This means that Polypro garments keep you dry as well as warm. A good example of a fast dry fabric is the Helly Hansen Lifa product, regarded by many as the best example of a stay dry base layer.

Polypro like Polyester is also very durable so is ideal as a fibre within a base layer. Again a good Polypro garment will have integrated anti-bacterial treatments in the same way as Polyester to eradicate bacteria that can cause fabric odours.

FITTING, DESIGN & SEASON

A base layer will either be a compression fit or fitted design. A loose fitting base layer isn't a "base layer" at all.....it's a Tee shirt or a second layer garment.

Base layers aren't necessarily just for the cold. A quality base layer should be the basis of any layering system and can be used in every season. A thermal base layer will provide added warmth. A specific base layer light in construction, offer a cooling effect and prevent uncomfortable moisture build up in warm conditions as well as defending against harmful sun's rays. Think about that bead of sweat rolling down your back in the height of summer.........Exactly! Summer specific and winter specific base layers have distinct differences in fit, design and appearance.

Summer Base Layers:

Summer base layers focus primarily on wicking away sweat or "managing" moisture, to prevent an uncomfortable build up of perspiration on the skin or on your shirt and shorts. These base layers are made of extremely thin, light fabric or can even be mesh. Wearing a base layer underneath your kit even in the summer can stop uncomfortable thigh chafing, nipple rub and sore arm pits and stops your workout gear becoming damp with sweat.

Summer Base Layers can be Compression Fit or Fitted depending on the brand, the material and the objective required as well as the desired fit. Long Sleeved, Short Sleeved, Shorts or Leggings are amongst the choices for a Summer use base layers and synthetic and wool are both desirable fabrics

Spring/Autumn Base Layers

These base layers are for the "transition" seasons and therefore resemble a compromise between sweat management and thermal warmth. These can be a slightly thicker fabric and a combination of Polyester & Polypro, Merino Blend or 100% Merino Wool. Some brands now combine the obvious benefits of Merino Wool with Synthetics to get the best of both worlds such as Helly Hansen®, Under Armour®, Lyle and Scott® and Odlo®.

Again, Spring/Autumn Base Layers can come in Compression Fitted designs depending on what each individual desires and can be long sleeve, short sleeve or shorts or tights.

Winter Base Layers

The most popular of the Base Layer family and the reason most people elect to wear one....to stay warm!

Winter Base Layers focus on keeping the "core" of your body warm. If the "core" or torso is kept warm, then the rest of the body is easier to keep warm.

Consider your "core" as the boiler and your hands and feet as the radiators to use a heating system analogy.

If the "boiler" is hot, then the radiators are hot. If you insulate the boiler and the radiators, then that valuable heat is retained. Warm "core" = warm hands and feet.

Winter Base layers can come in a variety of fittings from Compression to Fitted and some tops have thumb holes to provide coverage to the hands if desired.

Made from a variety and usually a combination of, Wool, Polyester and Polypropylene, different brands adopt different methods to ensure your thermal comfort.

DECIDING

How do you decide what you need? There is no one base layer that does all things despite some manufacturer's claims to the contrary.

You ideally need a base layer for each season to ensure maximum comfort with increased warmth in winter and the benefits of wicking materials, to dissipate perspiration, in the warmer months. Having a good base layer can significantly improve your comfort and enjoyment for all seasons and all sports and leisure activities.

The fabric you choose for will depend on your budget, your tastes, preferences, what you intend to use the product for and even allergies. Merino wool is normally more expensive than synthetics due to the expense of sourcing the relatively rare natural material. However, it may be worth spending more on merino if you are going to be using it frequently for commuting or walking when you will value the natural odour resistant properties and soft feel as well as the thermal properties.

As a general rule for more dynamic contact sports such as Football or Rugby, a Poly based garment is more durable and more easily washed of mud and grass stains. For Skiing, Cycling and Hiking there is a wider choice and Merino is equally at home under your ski wear as are Poly fibres. There are also numerous brands that combine Poly fibres with Merino to offer you the best of both worlds.

It is also important to ensure you get a base layer that fits you well; base layers are designed to be a "second skin" therefore a close fitting profile is more beneficial. Sizes vary between manufacturers, so check the Size Guide on individual products that you buy.

#BASELAYER

Are Solar Clothes to Power your devices a step closer?

Wed, 27 Sep 2017 11:49:00 GMT

Researchers have been working on embedding solar cells in clothes for more than a decade. The reason is simple: Flexible solar cells, when integrated into clothing, can also provide power for portable electronic devices

Scientists, according to work published in the Nature Energy science journal, say they have developed a new type of ultra-thin photovoltaic device, coated on both sides with stretchable and waterproof films, which can continue to provide electricity from sunlight even after being soaked in water or being stretched and compressed. The scientists from the Japan-based research institute RIKEN and the University of Tokyo, according to an 18 September press release, have developed extremely thin and flexible organic photovoltaic cells (these convert sunlight into electricity), based on a material called PNTz4T, which they had developed in earlier work.

The ultra-thin device was then placed on to an acrylic-based elastomer (rubbery material composed of long chain-like molecules, or polymers) and the top side of the device was coated with an identical elastomer, giving it a coating on both sides to prevent water infiltration. The elastomer, while allowing light to enter, prevents water and air from leaking into the cells, making them more long lasting than previous experiments.

The researchers then subjected the device to a variety of tests. To test the resistance of the cells to water, they soaked the device in water for 2 hours, and found that the efficiency decreased by just 5.4%. And to test the durability, they subjected it to compression, and found that after compressing by nearly half for 20 cycles while placing drops of water on it, it still had 80% of the original efficiency.

In the press release, Kenjiro Fukuda, research scientist at the RIKEN Center for Emergent Matter Science, says, “We very much hope that these washable, lightweight and stretchable organic photovoltaics will open a new avenue for use as a long-term power source system for wearable sensors and other devices.”

Netherlands-based fashion designer Pauline van Dongen, for one, launched a Solar Shirt in 2015, which was developed in collaboration with the Netherlands-based Holst Centre—an independent research and development (R&D) centre that develops technologies for wireless autonomous sensor technologies and flexible electronics. The Solar Shirt, work on which was on since 2014, incorporates 120 thin film solar cells that are combined into standardized functional modules using Holst Centre’s stretchable interconnect technology for integrating electronics into fabrics.

The modules can be mass-manufactured and incorporated into the fabric using familiar industrial “iron-on” techniques before the garment is stitched. In bright sunlight, it produces around 1 watt of electricity—enough to charge a typical phone in a few hours, according to van Dongen’s website.

The shirt, the website adds, generates enough power indoors to charge a phone. The shirt can also charge smartphones, MP3 players, cameras, GPS systems, and other USB-compatible hand-held or portable devices, according to a 16 March 2015 press release by Holst Centre.

In a paper published in Advanced Functional Materials in May, materials scientist Trisha Andrew at the University of Massachusetts Amherst and colleagues outlined how they have invented a way to apply breathable, pliable, metal-free electrodes to fabric, and off-the-shelf clothing, so it feels good to the touch and also transports enough electricity to power small electronics.

In their paper, Andrew and postdoctoral researcher Lu Shuai Zhang describe the method (vapour deposition) they use to coat fabrics with a conducting polymer—poly (3,4-ethylenedioxytiophene) also known as PEDOT—to make plain-woven, conducting fabrics that are resistant to stretching and wear and remain stable after washing and ironing.

“Our article describes the materials science needed to make these robust conductors,” Andrew said in a 23 May press release. “We show them to be stable to washing, rubbing, human sweat and a lot of wear and tear,” she added. Andrew and Zhang are working “on taking any garment you give us and turning it into a solar cell so that as you are walking around, the sunlight that hits your clothes can be stored in a battery or be plugged in to power a small electronic device”.

Meanwhile, Andrew and Marianne Fairbanks, assistant professor of textiles and design at the University of Wisconsin in Madison, too, are developing a solar textile that could end up in clothing, curtains, car seats and tents.

Rethinking Odour Control

Thu, 27 Jul 2017 08:35:00 GMT

Debra Cobb / Featured

New antimicrobial technologies focus on treatments for ‘permastink.’

It’s everywhere, and it’s not attractive. Permastink—the unpleasant smell that won’t wash out of textile products—has become a topic of conversation for consumers and brands alike.

Polyester and other synthetic fibers are the materials of choice for the active performance and athleisure styles consumers now wear throughout the day. Unfortunately, these synthetic fibers are perceived as being smellier than natural fibers, according to a 2008 wear trial at the University of Alberta.1

What causes permastink?

Malodors are created by the breakdown of bodily secretions into various compounds by bacteria on the skin. These compounds may include methanethiol, hydrogen sulfide, propanoic acid, and isovaleric acid. They create a chemical bond with performance fibers, locking permastink into the fabric.

Consumers are choosing to save energy by washing textile products at lower temperatures; and most performance fabrics recommend a low temperature wash. As a result, higher levels of odor-causing bacteria remain on untreated articles even after laundering.

“With permastink, garments don’t wash clean, and brands get returns,” says Lisa Owens, vice president of global textiles at Microban, a provider of antimicrobial technologies and odor control solutions. “It’s quite a problem in the industry.”

“Once odors lock into untreated synthetics, they are difficult to remove,” confirms Lee Christie Stapleton, directory of training and education at Sensory Spectrum, a global management consulting firm specializing in understanding the sensory-consumer experience. “How can we prevent that from happening?”

Killing microbes, not odors

Conventional solutions for preventing malodors on textiles focus on inhibiting the growth of odor-causing bacteria through the application of antimicrobials, either built into fiber, or applied during the textile finishing process.

While many of these successfully reduce the amount of bacteria, there is a wide variation in efficacy and durability of these formulations—and in the methods used to test and measure them.

The International Antimicrobial Council (IAC) lists five different test methods for measuring the performance of standard antimicrobial treatments: ASTM E2149-2010, AATCC 147-2004, AATCC 100-2011, ISO 20743-2007 and JISL 1902-2008. The IAC recommends that these tests be performed and verified by IAC certified labs. In general, such tests seek to assess the bactericidal activity of the test agent, as well as its inhibition of bacterial growth. But if technology supplier A uses a different test method than that used by technology supplier B, is it possible to truly compare the efficacy and durability of the two antimicrobial technologies?

Woodhead Publishing’s 2016 Antimicrobial Textiles, edited by Gang Sun, questions the validity of current test methods: “All these methods simulate optimum efficacy conditions for antimicrobial agents … But these conditions, except sportive activities, normally do not occur during practical wearing … Thus it is possible that textiles will be regarded as antimicrobial, but under practical wearing or environmental conditions, there is no, or a highly reduced, antimicrobial effect.

Another problem is that not every antimicrobial agent on the textile shows an antimicrobial action with every test method. Thus the comparability of the different methods is complicated, additionally.”

When it comes their use on apparel textiles, antimicrobial technologies have other issues, including the growth of bacterial resistance and the leaching of silver or other antimicrobial agents. But the bigger question is this: does the reduction of bacteria actually prevent, block, or remove odor on the textile?

Odor adsorption

As it turns out, there are other options.

“You have products that inhibit microbial growth. But there are other technologies that trap odor so that you don’t perceive it,” says Stapleton. “Preventing the malodor is the game in apparel. The more you can deactivate—‘eat’ the odor—you prevent it from getting to the permastink category.”

The concept of trapping, adsorbing, and eliminating odor-using, activated carbon particles or cyclodextrins is well-known to hunters and gamekeepers. In 1992 a company called Scent-Lok first developed hunting apparel containing activated charcoal to block human scent so that the game being hunted wouldn’t smell the hunters’ presence.

Owens says that carbons and cyclodextrins have shortcomings, however, such as cost, binders, discolorations and durability. A number of textile technology suppliers are now commercializing new versions of odor adsorption treatments for apparel textiles using substances such as zeolite (a mineral formed when volcanic ash reacts with alkaline groundwater) and alumina silica. The large surface area of these minerals attracts and adsorbs odor molecules.

The products’ efficacy can be proven by ISO test 17299, which measures deodorization rates via gas chromatography. Standards are also established by the Japan Textile Evaluation Technology Council (JTETC).

“There’s art and there’s science when it comes to measuring odor,” says Stapleton. Sensory Spectrum recognizes three methods for evaluating odor: microbiological detection, gas chromatography, and experts who are trained to identify and evaluate the strength of odors to a scale.

“Odor compounds aren’t necessarily good or bad—it’s about the context,” Stapleton says.

A platform of odor control solutions

Based on zeolites, Sciessent’s LAVA XL™ technology attracts, adsorbs, and degrades odor molecules, avoiding saturation and allowing the product to regenerate between launderings. The bluesign®-approved formulation can be combined with Sciessent’s Agion® silver ion-based antimicrobial to create Agion XL with dual-function odor control.

Just introduced, HeiQ Fresh NKU goes beyond adsorbing body odor deriving from bacterial sweat metabolites, to sequestering volatile malodors like the “plastic” smell of polyester, new upholstery, or body hormones. The large surface of the alumina-silica microparticles in Fresh NKU immobilizes unpleasant volatile odor compounds, turning them into non-volatile, and therefore non-perceivable, odor compounds. HeiQ is also planning to release a product combining Fresh NKU with its silver-based antimicrobial technology.

SCENTRY®, Microban’s odor-capture, product platform apparel, was introduced as a novel solution to the problem of adsorbing and trapping the body odorant compounds released by bacteria—blocking the formation of permastink, according to Brian Aylward, director of liquid formulations, R&D, at Microban. Applied as a finish, SCENTRY® creates a barrier layer on the surface of the textiles, trapping the odors and preventing them from bonding with the fabric. Washing the textile with water and detergent releases the trapped odors and recharges the treatment.

“The technology is completely different from antimicrobials, and is capable of reducing the amount of odor building up in a textile over time,” says Aylward.

SCENTRY has already been commercialized with the hunting and outdoor apparel brand Hook and Bullet, where odor adsorption commands a premium. A number of trials are being run in the performance and leisurewear segments, according to Owens. The technology has received the bluesign® system blue product designation, and can be combined with Microban antimicrobial-based technologies to provide 360˚odor control, the company says.

Microban has also developed SCENTRY for polymers, which will function as a built-in solution for consumer products using recycled PET, for example. “SCENTRY is part of a platform of customized solutions, built on our odor management expertise,” says Owens.

Korean textile producer Hyosung also sees the merit of polymers that can chemically neutralize odors in textiles. Its creora® Fresh is a functional spandex that chemically neutralizes odors such as ammonia, acetic acid, and isovaleric acid, keeping textiles smelling fresh.

Because the deodorizing function is in the polymer, it is more durable than textile coatings or finishes; and is particularly effective in textiles that come in direct contact with the skin, such as underwear, sportswear, and hosiery.

“At the consumer level, all ages continue to focus on health and wellness, with increased participation in exercise,” says Ria Stern, Hyosung textiles global marketing director. “In socks for running or walking, creora Fresh adds compression, support, and odor-neutralizing benefits with technology built into the fiber for more durability. In sports bras and underwear, we are working with brands and retailers who want to move away from having antimicrobial chemicals next to skin.”
Hyosung has also developed freshgear® polyester and MIPAN freshgear nylon as solutions for controlling odors in apparel fabrics.

What’s clear is that no one method of odor control will work in every situation. While some brands may prefer to prove odor reduction by counting bacteria in the lab, others can now choose a more sensory approach. Meanwhile, technology providers continue to develop new solutions to the problem of stinky textiles.

Debra Cobb is a freelance writer based in Greensboro, N.C, with extensive experience in the textiles industry. She is a regular contributor to Advanced Textiles Source.

1McQueen, Rachel H., et al. “Retention of axillary odour on apparel fabrics.” Journal of the Textile Institute 99.6 (2008):515-523.

Advanced Layering By Philip Werner

Tue, 08 Dec 2015 14:39:00 GMT

dress like an onion , layering , layering basics , winter underwear

How to wash and reproof a waterproof Shell

Thu, 15 Oct 2015 09:28:00 GMT

A great article from UK Hill walking on garment maintenance

by Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com 14/Oct/2015
This article has been read 898 times

You should expect many years' service from a quality waterproof shell, yet over time both dirt and general wear will begin to affect the breathability of even the best performing waterproof. They may never quite be factory fresh again, but with a bit of TLC you can easily and cheaply give tired old garments a new lease of life. Here's how:

DWR, or durable water repellent treatment is a hydrophobic (waterproof) coating applied to the surface of fabrics to prevent them soaking up water. In most waterproof shells the DWR is used in combination with a waterproof breathable membrane, such as Gore-Tex or eVent. The idea is that the DWR prevents the outer layer from becoming saturated, allowing the membrane beneath to transport water vapour outwards as efficiently as possible. When your shell is functioning as designed, rain will bead on its surface rather than soaking in. However if the surface starts to soak up moisture, or wet out , then sweat vapour can no longer escape. The result is that you get wet and clammy on the inside even during moderate exercise.

Washing

A build-up of dirt, sweat and grease (sun screen for instance) on the outside of a shell will compromise both the DWR and the membrane, so washing a garment should always be your first move when its performance starts to tail off and it shows signs of wetting out. For the first few washes the following ought to be enough to revitalise water repellency:

Re-proofing

If washing alone has not solved the problem it's likely that the manufacturer's DWR coating has begun to degrade. It can be rejuvenated, albeit temporarily, by reproofing the garment with a dedicated wash-in solution such as Nikwax TX Direct or Granger's Clothing Repel.